When was the last time you gave your stylist or colorist an audit? Are you getting the best service for your money? And more important, is he or she doing a great job? Professional hair services are expensive, and as it turns out, there are important differences in how colorists work, which products they use and how they use them.

For example, at Troupe Salon in Chicago, head colorist and salon owner Shane Talbott (and his color staff) are careful to remove highlight foils at different intervals as opposed to all at once. This is crucial because, according to Talbott, if you wait until the final highlighted strands are properly processed you risk over-lightening the section that was treated first. "Highlights take a while to apply, so it makes sense that the section you start with will be 'finished' before the rest," Talbott says.

As for using heat to expedite processing, Talbott won't hear of it when it comes to highlights. "While heat can speed the absorption of overall color into dark or color-resistant hair, it's just too risky for highlights," Talbott says. "It's so easy to over-process highlights when you apply heat."

Another thing to consider is how your colorist conditions your hair post-highlights. At Troupe, in addition to a deep conditioner, colorists apply a finishing glaze for several minutes to help seal in moisture and increase shine.

As for advice, it's up to you whether you want (or ask for) input regarding your style or color. Talbott says that many of his clients look to him for suggestions, particularly when it comes to seasonal looks. "Most people don't think about making changes for the seasons and so it's up to me to suggest an adjustment," says Talbott. In fall, for example, I may recommend going a little richer with color for more depth. In summer, I like to brighten things up a little which doesn't mean a radical change. In fact, a subtle adjustment such as a few dozen additional highlights around your face can make a great impact."

According to Talbott, short, cropped bobs are not the trend these days, and more people are opting for slightly longer locks with some layering for volume. He's also seeing a wider variety of colors in hair right now, which is due in part to fashion trends, that right now are exhibiting a lot of bright colors. Chunky hair color, however, is way out. "The chunked look is too harsh and extremely hard to maintain if you want it to look good," Talbott says.

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